G S and I climbed in Peru for six weeks from late July, during this period we were also joined by M L, T B (both 4 weeks), and L F (2 weeks). After acclimatising around Huaraz the group trekked into the Huayhuash base camp. Our original objective of a new route up the west face of Jirishanca Chico was abandoned as through binoculars we could see snow formations which, we felt, made our intended line of ascent too objectively dangerous. Therefore we decided to focus our attention on the eastern side of the 'southern spur' of the Huayhuash (Jaurau, Carnicero and Huaraca). Here 3 new routes were completed: ·

East ridge of Quesillo, (Cl, G, M, T) ·

N.Ridge of Huaraca, (M, T) ·

N.E Face of Huaraca (C, G)

During the ascent of East ridge of Quesillo all four of us were hit by an 'electrical discharge', this knocked M out for 30 seconds. Although he was physically unharmed, (apart from the very small patch of burnt hair on his scalp,) immediately after the strike he was not mentally with it. It was therefore decided due to weather conditions, time of day etc. to spend the night in a snow cave 40 metres below the summit. Without bivi gear we huddled together through the night. Descent was made the next day, by which point M was back to full fitness (in fact was probably the healthiest out of all of us.) From the top of Huaraca we could see the western faces of Huaraca, Carnicero etc; the area we were planning on visiting on the next phase of our expedition. However what we saw made us re-think due to severe crevassing of the approaches and objective dangers spanning the faces. After a return to Huaraz, M and T left us to return to the UK. G, L and I went to explore the area around Contraherbis and Ulta in the Cordierra Blanca. Conditions (now later in the season) made many lines too dangerous to contemplate, however we did make an ascent of the east ridge of Pt 5325m on the Nevada Ulta ridge (believed to be a new route). After another return trip to Huaraz, G and I headed for the Ishinka refuge, and failed on an attempt at a new line on the south west face of Urus Oeste. We abseiled the face from half height late in the afternoon when it became obvious that we were not going to complete the climb without a bivi (for which we were not prepared), the difficult climbing was the main cause of our slow pace. C R

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